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What can you do if an upstairs neighbor refuses to repair a leak?

How does one prevent condensation from forming around pipes?

When is it necessary to get a sump pump? What kinds are there?

What can we do to prevent pipes from freezing?

How can I make sure that my building is not wasting water?

What can we do about a damp basement?

My unit has poor hot water pressure (bad enough that it's affecting my ability to sell the unit). My plumber says the problem is the building's major pipes and my association refuses to fix the problem because it affects only one unit. Any suggestions?

We do not know of an easy answer to this kind of problem. In many associations, the building is only responsible for the main supply lines and drain pipes, while the connections to the pipes are the unit owner's responsibility. (Check your condo docs for details.) If that's the case in your building, the problem is likely your upstairs neighbor's; thus the condo association or building management may not be especially helpful.

You may need to consult a lawyer, but here are a few things to consider:

• If you're concerned about the danger of fire, from water hitting electric wires or appliances, discuss this with your property manager and contact the fire department.
• If you're concerned about the danger of mold, contact your state's health department to find out what your rights are.
• If you're concerned about the cost of repair and the damage to your property, call your insurance broker, who should be able to give information about your liability and your rights.

Because your upstairs neighbor is not cooperative, I would go to the resident above (if there is one) to see if the problem starts from there. You could also ask the condo committee to have the roof inspected, just to make sure the problem is not being caused by a roof leak.

If you still believe the problem is with your upstairs neighbor's unit, inform him or ask the condo committee to inform him that the problem may be his responsibility, and if he works with you, you can keep the costs down. You might also suggest he discuss the matter with his insurance company.

Difficult neighbors can make life difficult and, ultimately, if your neighbor refuses to cooperate, your best bet may be to consult a lawyer.

Condensation forms when warm, moist air meets cold air. Exposed pipes in the basement often "sweat" during summer months because the water running through the pipes is colder than the air surrounding them. Pipes can be insulated to shield them from the warm air using a neoprene insulation fabricated according to the pipe diameter. This is a simple project that can be done by a handyman or a plumber.

If your basement floods regularly, you should get a sump pump. It will keep water from rising up and ruining your belongings.

There are three common types of pumps. The cheapest solution is a pedestal pump. It stands upright in the sump pit with the motor just above the pumping mechanism. The motor is not meant to get wet--it has a float activated switch that turns the pump on when water gets to a certain level. They are somewhat noisy, but are recommended for basements that require frequent pumping. The next option is a submersible pump. It's meant to be submerged in water but activates by the same float switch. It's quieter than the pedestal pump, is more expensive, but lasts longer. The final type of pump is a water powered pump as it works off of the home plumbing system. It doesn't use electricity and is therefore slower and less powerful. It is often used as a backup during power failure.

The horsepower requirement for a pump is mainly determined by the size of the drainage area, depth of ground water, and depth of basement. A 1/3 horsepower pump is a standard size for most basements. For larger buildings, a 1/2 horsepower motor may be appropriate. You should discuss this with your plumber.

Note that sump pump output should never be pumped into a sewer drain or basement floor drain. The water should be carried away at least 20 feet from the house so that it drains away from the house. Also, be careful not to pump into a septic system drain field.

When water freezes it expands and, as a result, can burst pipes, even metal ones. During the cold, one can take several steps to prevent freezing. First make an inventory of pipes that may be subject to freezing. You may already know which lines freeze. Otherwise, you're most likely to find these pipes in unheated areas, typically in the basement or in the walls. Cold water pipes in cold areas are the ones most likely to freeze.

To reduce the likelihood of pipes freezing, do the following:

• Make sure basement and garage doors and windows are shut if those spaces contain pipes.
• Periodically open cabinets that contain pipes so that the warm interior air reaches them.
• In very cold weather, keep the cold water faucet set to a slow drip.
• Keep the thermostat at the same temperature day and night during very cold weather.
• Don't turn off the heat when you are away. Keep it set to at least 55ºF.

If the water comes out in a trickle, you may have frozen pipes. It is important to fix this problem. If you don't want to call a plumber, you can try fixing it yourself by identifying where the pipe is frozen (under a cabinet, against or in an exterior wall, etc.) and gently warming it. A safe way to warm pipes is by wrapping them with hot towels. Do not use blow torches because they can cause the water to boil, which can cause the pipe to burst. In addition, open flames can cause lethal carbon monoxide While thawing the pipe, keep the faucet running.

When water pressure returns to normal, you'll know the pipe is fully thawed. Finally, check other faucets in the building becaue, if one pipe was frozen, there's a good chance others are frozen as well.

If you cannot thaw the pipe yourself, it is important that you call in a licensed plumber.

In some cases, a water leak may not be noticed. It may occur between the walls or underground. It may be caused by a running toilet that does not make enough noise to be heard. Not only is this wasteful, it can be costly. According to an article from Plumbing and Mechanical Magazine, "In an average home, plumbing leaks account for about 14 percent of water consumed. Leaking toilets can waste from 30 to 500 gallons a day -- that's about $1,000 a year."

To see if your building (or unit) is wasting water, perform the following simple steps:

1. Read the water meter at a time when none or very little water will be used for several hours, such as before going to bed.
2. Read the meter again after that time period.

The two readings should be about the same. If they are not, you probably have a leak.

To find the leak, unit owners should carefully explore the building, especially the basement. Individual unit owners should check their faucets, shutoff valves, and toilets. They should also look for signs of water damage in kitchen and bathroom cabinets and on ceilings, where water stains might appear. Whether you find the leak or not, you will need to call in a plumber. Some larger plumbers have specialized equipment for detecting leaks.

What can we do about a damp basement?

There are many causes of dampness in basements. If the cause comes from high ground water levels, the solutions to the problem can be very costly. However, most of the time, the cause of dampness is far more mundane.

Start by inspecting the foundation of your building. Look for cracks in the foundation. If you find any, have them caulked and sealed.

After that, inspect the area immediately surrounding your building during and after a period of rain. Look for signs of oversaturated areas--where the ground feels squishy, where water pools, where there's mud, and so on. Oversaturation of the soil near your building can result in dampness and wetness in the basement. The usual causes of oversaturation are easily resolved:

• If the gutters are overflowing, it means they are clogged and the overflow may be oversaturating the soil near your building. The solution: Clean the gutters.
• If there is a large pool of water near the gutter's downspout, that pool may be making its way into your basement. The solution: Extend the downspout so it travels several feet away from the building to a drainage area.
• If there are pools of water in other places, it may mean that parts of the landscape are sloped toward the building, rather than away from it. The solution: Hire a landscaper to to slope the ground away from the building. (Some experts say the slope should be about 2 inches per foot for the first 6 feet.)

Some problems, such as high ground water levels, are rare, but very challenging to resolve. Two common ways to reduce dampness in areas with high water levels are to install one or more sump pumps in the basement or, more expensively, to excavate around the home's foundation and install drainage boards and apply waterproofing sealer.

Once you have done your best to direct water away from the premises, you should coat (or seal) the basement walls with a masonry waterproofer. In most basements, this is a job for a professional because the masonry walls must be thoroughly cleaned and may need to be etched with muriatic acid to ensure the sealer adheres properly. In addition, the floor will need to be coated, typically with polyurethane.

Even after all this, you may still find it necessary to run a dehumidier in the basement.

You could go to a lawyer and discuss the situation there, but unless the lack of pressure is severe enough to represent a health hazard or some other code violation, I think you'd be told that it wouldn't be easy to make a case. That said, getting a lawyer to write an assertive letter to a condo board might cost ony a couple hundred dollars and might be enough to do the trick.

It seems strange that your unit lacks hot water pressure. A plumber should be able to check your shower and sink hardware to see if there are water regulating devices (but those typically affect both hot and cold water). The plumber should also check all relevant valves -- these are typically in your unit (sometimes behind the wall) and in the basement near the hot water tank. The valve may not be open all the way or may be damaged and restricting water flow.

Our plumber suggests you call in another plumber to inspect these valves. He thinks it's highly unlikely that the problem rests with the pipes in your building, unless there's a leak, which the condo assocation (or you, if the leak's in your unit) would obviously want to address.